My New Orleans: the cookbook by John Besh, a review

Last winter while on chemo I became very much housebound both by the weather and my health. Therefore I lived for the mail delivery and with it the scores of cookbooks I purchased to while away the many hours I lingered on the couch. I’d dream of the day I had both the energy and the ability to eat anything I wanted and would conspire various scenarios where I would be back in the action of the kitchen again.

These days I’m still occasionally looking for my oft non-existent energy level and then there is the whole now that I can (in theory) eat anything I want; the question becomes should I. I’ve been trying unsuccessfully to address the weight gain from the drugs and have been vacillating between it would taste so good but there are so many other (healthier) choices out there. I'm not averse to healthy eating by any means; it’s just that chicken still has an off metallic taste to it and broccoli lost all its appeal in the hospital when it was served to me both soggy & grey.

Anyway, one of the earliest tomes to arrive during my necessity imposed exile was Chef Besh's My New Orleans.  I love this kind of cookbook, yes you get the the "recipes", but what I loved even more was the  context and history of the region through storytelling and the wonderful photographs.  Throw in some music and you have Mardi Gras waiting to take place.  While I have several cookbooks from New Orleans this has quickly become one of my favorites and instead of languishing away on the bookshelf it's actually a "coffee table" book now on display on the dining room buffet.

During my recovery I spent several weeks pouring over the material...inevitably something would capture my imagination and I'd head off to the Internet "to learn more about it" reminiscent of a weekday afternoon school special.  I think I lost three days alone learning about the various Indian krewes and their elaborate yearly handmade costumes...this obsession came courtesy of a photo attribution appearing in the chapter devoted to Mardi Gras. 

I also enjoyed the chapter on Feast Days including the Passover Seder where one of the items was a Creole Matzo Ball Soup.  Depending on the classic French mirepoix (carrots, onions and celery) rather than the regional favorite the holy trinity of celery, onion and bell pepper it did add tomato and red pepper flakes to give it the local flair.  Given this recipe is suitable for Passover, Chef ignores the whole sinkers and floaters controversy by avoiding the use of club soda or baking powder in the matzo balls.  At other times of the year let your Bubbie be your guide.

Many of the other chapters are seasonally and therefore indirectly ingredient driven like crab or oyster season or chantrelleles and blackberries. Sweet and savory stand side by side in an interesting and dramatic departure from usual cookbook formats that often depend on courses to categorize the recipes.  The annotated table of contents is enough to let you know what will be represented in the chapter and the book also provides a great index. As you would expect there are other holiday chapters like Thanksgiving and Revellion.

I had to laugh when I saw the inclusion of watermelon pickles under "Preserving Summer"; instantly I was thinking of both my mother and grandmother.  Upon further investigation it seems Chef Besh's Grandaddy was just as persnickety regarding his fig preserves as my grandmother was about her watermelon preserves.  It is these kinds of stories that give the book warmth.  I would also personally kill for access to 5+ lbs of fresh figs to try the preserve recipe. 

It should be noted, the recipes are not for everyone.  They are highly regionalized and in some cases not for the squeamish or as the LMF would say involves some potentially fear factor type foods such as shrimp heads, frog legs, pork cheeks and pigs feet.  The cooking techniques are often slow or multifaceted and in many cases not suited for a quick weeknight meal but rather for entertaining and holiday purposes and the minimum serving size is 6-8 and upwards of 12-16. 

One other thing I appreciated about Chef Besh's book, while he does provide a "basic" Creole spice mix, he has not tried to brand it to his own kitchen nor is he heavily dependant upon it in his recipes. While I understand the convenience (and consistency) factor associated with having such a spice blend hanging around if used in everything it begins to lose its impact both literally and figuratively making the food somewhat one dimensional. Chef Besh is also into the "spirit" of recipes rather than strict adherence to the letter of the law taking into account the need for individual taste, seasonal and regional availability of ingredients and the like.  This is the kind of cooking I grew up on, technique first...ingredients to follow.  Not unlike the musician who lays down the beat first and the notes magically sort of happen. 

The $50 price tag associated with the book may be off-putting to many a reader.  Personally I picked it up for song ($12.50 and no postage) given my "frequent flyer miles" with a cookbook club I've belonged to for years. That said, I would suggest trying your local public library to see if a copy is readily available or available through inter-library loan for you to review.  Then judge for yourself if it warrants inclusion in your own collection, don't forget used and/or discount copies should be available as well.

Overall I'd belly up to Chef Besh's bar anytime and he will be given priority on my next trip to NOLA whenever that may be.